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A return to Nova Scotia. We first visited Nova Scotia in late summer 2022. Prior to taking the ferry across the Northumberland Strait to Nova Scotia, we spent 10 glorious days exploring Prince Edward Island. As we made our way south, toward home, we mapped out a quick five days on Nova Scotia.
Based on our research and beautiful pictures, we were somewhat disappointed by what we found once we disembarked from the ferry. Yes, it was pretty, and yes, there were forests of trees. But, as we spent the first two days traveling south we were somewhat dismayed to find the main roadway was just a straight shot through the middle of the peninsula. Where’s the stunning scenery? Is this all there is, we thought? Ah… but wait.
Love at First Sight
On day three, we landed in Lunenburg. We had booked a cute little cottage just a stones throw outside of town and suddenly, we were madly in love with Nova Scotia. We knew nothing of Lunenburg, but we quickly found we had landed in the most picturesque fishing village we’d ever seen. It was love at first sight, but let’s get back to the future.
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A Return to Nova Scotia
Our home base is in the state of Maryland, which means a hefty 1,000+ mile drive north to Nova Scotia. We spent two days and nights on the road, and another half day to reach Saint John, New Brunswick where we spent a third night. On the way home we rerouted ourselves and found we could make the drive with just two nights on the road, but that’s another story. To save ourselves an additional five hours of driving, we opted to take the Fundy Rose Ferry from Saint John to Digby. Here’s why.
Top 5 Reasons to Take the Fundy Rose
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1. Save the drive time. From Saint John to Lunenburg it’s a five hour drive. The ferry takes 2 1/4 hours to cross the Bay of Fundy to Digby, Nova Scotia. From Digby to Lunenburg, it’s a scenic two-hour drive. Of course it all depends on your final destination.β Ours was Lunenburg.
2. Sit back, relax and enjoy the views, or stretch your legs strolling the decksβ.
3. Watch a movie. There are two screen areas, one for adults, one for kids. Comfy airline seats with plenty of legroom make for a relaxing time.
4. While you’re watching a movie, or just relaxing, enjoy a cooked to order meal. Cheeseburgers, fish & chips, chowder, etc. Or, for a snack, chips, pastries, sodas, coffee, tea. Or, bring your own.
5. Take a nap!
Taking the Fundy Rose Ferry across the Bay of Fundy proved to be a terrific short cut. Not only did it save us a few hours of drive time, but it was a fun trip. We had lunch while we watched a movie, took in the views, and just generally relaxed and enjoyed the trip. The return trip was equally enjoyable and kudos to the BFL Ferries crew. It’s a smooth efficient operation.
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A World Away
Upon disembarking from the Fundy Rose, we drove two hours along two-lane scenic roads to Lunenburg. We checked in to our cottage, unpacked our bags and began our 7-day return to Nova Scotia. Checking in to our cottage at Atlantic View Motel & Cottages felt a bit like coming home. The resort is less than five minutes from Lunenburg, but feels like a world away. The well-kept property sits literally across the road from the Atlantic Ocean and offers a private beach. We discovered the small resort in 2022 and truthfully, we’ll never stay anywhere else.
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How to Spend 7 Days in Nova Scotia
Because we had a full week on this visit, we decided to branch out and explore the areas beyond Lunenburg. It was definitely Lunenburg that called us back, but Nova Scotia has so much to offer. Here’s how we spent our days, aside from just relaxing at our cottage while staring out at the sea.
Blue Rocks
Blue Rocks is a small idyllic community located just about 10 minutes east of Lunenburg. To say it is picturesque is an understatement. It is unbelievably beautiful. It was, and still is, a small fishing village, but in the 1940’s it was discovered by artists and photographers. Today, it is a photographers paradise. There are a few art galleries, and guest houses. Hiking trails can be found and kayak rentals are available as well. We explored Blue Rocks twice; once on a cloudy gray day, the other under a clear blue sky. Both visits were wonderful. It’s just a lovely way to spend a few hours.
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Jesse Stone
If you’re a fan of Tom Selleck’s Jesse Stone movies, you’ll understand the curiosity of finding the site where scenes of Jesse’s house were filmed. To fans of Jesse Stone the house is iconic because of the setting and the footbridge. Being fans, we set out on a quest to find the location. The house is at 471 Southside Road, Lunenburg. To find it, drive to Blue Rocks, head out of the village on Southside Road and keep driving until the road ends.
The house sits on a small island with three other houses. The island is private, but you can access the famous footbridge and walk across. The house has been completely renovated, but it’s easy to see it’s the real deal. Apparently, interior shots were filmed in a studio. Scenes from the movies were filmed in Lunenburg and Halifax. Lunenburg was the setting for the fictional town of Paradise and Halifax was the setting for Boston.
Annapolis Valley
Annapolis Valley is located on the western part of the peninsula, and it borders the Bay of Fundy. It’s about a 1 hour and 20-minute drive from Lunenburg, just a hop, skip and a jump across the peninsula. We were aiming for the wineries, although before this trip we had no idea Nova Scotia had a wine region. We visited three wineries and while we didn’t purchase any wine, we certainly had a really nice time tasting. An added bonus was the amazing landscapes along the way, and the charming town of Wolfville. All in all it was a lovely way to spend a day.
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Oh, and we found the best cheese shop in Wolfville! The Wolfville Cheese Shop. We may not have bought wine, but we certainly bought a selection of cheeses and charcuterie. Mike, was super friendly and knowledgeable. And, very patient as we tasted a few cheeses and meats before deciding which ones we enjoyed the most. We highly recommend the Wolfville Cheese Shop.
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Mahone Bay
Mahone Bay is pretty much picture perfect. Known for the three churches, this pretty little village is home to shops, galleries, eateries and breweries. It’s similar to Lunenburg, only on a smaller scale. Mahone Bay has been home to fishing and boat builders for, well, forever. Apparently, there are hundreds of small uninhabited islands in the bay as well. It’s also a relaxing spot for a picnic, which is just what we did.
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Lunenburg
Lunenburg is what brought us back to Nova Scotia. When we visited in 2022, we only had 2 1/2 days and we left wanting more. We knew we wanted to return, so this year we made it happen. And, truthfully, I won’t be surprised if we return again, and again. There is something special about it that speaks to us. We find ourselves able to fully relax and free our minds. There’s no hustle and bustle as we often experience when traveling abroad. It’s rare for us to just sit. Sit and look at the sea. But, when we did decide to venture out such as we did on this trip, we never had to go far to see the next beautiful sight. I’ve written about our previous visit to lovely Lunenburg, which you can read here.
Discoveries
While in Lunenburg, on this trip, we made a few fun discoveries. If it’s Thursday, the Lunenburg Farmers’ Market is held at the indoor arena. What a find! We always enjoy local markets and this one did not disappoint. You name it, they had it. From fresh produce, to artisan breads, breweries, handmade crafts and quilts, and chocolate just to name a few. It was easy to see the market is very popular with the locals.
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The Lightship Brewery, which sits right along the shore with panoramic views of Lunenburg, was so good. A flight of beer, nibbles of fish and chips and a pizza made for a delicious lunch. Highly recommend.
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Always on the look out for markets, we came across Sunnybrook Mill Market and loved it. Super friendly people, great service and probably the best almond cake we’ve had. Clearly, another local favorite. While in the market an elderly man asked me where we were from. I replied Washington, DC and he said, “Why not live here, it’s heaven!” You know what? He wasn’t wrong.
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A Return to Nova Scotia
Our return to Nova Scotia, and Lunenburg, was everything we hoped it would be. A week of lovely weather and beautiful landscapes that defy the imagination. It was a week of just sitting back and embracing the moment. It’s a trek, for sure, but it was so worth it. We’re already potting our next return to Nova Scotia.
p.s. Don’t forget to watch our video “How We Spent 7 Days on Nova Scotia”, on our Youtube channel, CLICK HERE, please and thank you.
I’m so happy you were able to return to Lunenburg as it’s surely one of Nova Scotia’s most charming communities. We were lucky to discover it decades ago when two close friends moved there from my hometown of Ottawa. If you get back one day, I hope you’ll consider seeing more of the province and even make it over to Newfoundland, charm on steroids!
Thank you, Annie. I know we’re going to make another trip, maybe every other year sounds good. And, we’d definitely like to explore more of NS, especially Cape Breton and for sure Newfoundland. It’s all so incredibly beautiful. I was thinking of you while we were in Lunenburg as I remember how much you love it as well.