Iran: Arrival. As I put fingers to keyboard to begin writing about our three weeks in Iran, I want to rewind for just a bit to write a few words about traveling in today’s world.
Rousted at the Airport
Waiting for our flight from Geneva to Washington, D.C. we were rousted out of the waiting area – near the gate – by airport security. We had checked in at the counter to check our bags, and we successfully passed through security. Then successfully passed through customs before making our way to the waiting area.
For whatever reason everyone sitting in the waiting area was ushered out, asked to form a line and then questioned yet again. Have you bought anything in the airport? Have you had your bag with you the entire time? Did anyone ask you to carry anything for them? Yes. Yes. No. You may return to the waiting area. Abi, not so fortunate. He was randomly selected for a pat down right there in the waiting area. Others received the same pat down while others were told to go directly to the check-in counter for yet another round of questions, while still others were cleared to return to their seats.
Through the Gauntlet
We’d never experienced anything like it and I must say it was a bit disconcerting. We don’t know if they were looking for someone/something specific, or if they were just running everyone through the gauntlet, but we believe it was coming from U.S. mandates. There were 9 United Airline clerks working that counter. When we left the U.S. we were lucky to find 1 person to assist with the self check-in portals. The powers to be are not worried about who’s leaving the country, but they are certainly paying attention to who is entering.
Security in Spain
While in Europe we traveled by train on 9 different days and each of those days presented us with a fun travel experience. Well, the overnight train was not exactly fun, but give me train travel over flying any day! If only they could build rail tracks across the Atlantic. Of those 9 train travel days, there were only 2 days in which the security was extra tight and both days were in Spain. Leaving Madrid and leaving Barcelona we were required to check in through security. Spain has a history with terrorism on trains, so we weren’t at all surprised.
Traveling in Today’s World
What’s my point in telling you this? Sadly, it seems to be the state of affairs for traveling in today’s world. It’s the name of the game and patience is the wisdom to live by, no matter the level of personal frustration. Grin and bear it as they say, but please don’t let it stop you from getting out there to see the world.
It took me 20 years to make the decision to travel, with Abi, to Iran for a multitude of reasons, one of which being how the mass media portrays the middle east as a scary unstable part of the world. But now I find myself asking if Iran, specifically, really is. Is traveling to Iran any more dangerous than any other part of the world?
Too Quick to Judge
The middle east certainly has its share of bad news, there is no question about that. But if we talk country specific so does the United States (and much of ours is home grown) so does Spain, France, England, Australia, … is there a country in the world that truly doesn’t? Is it that we’re too quick to judge foreign lands before we judge ourselves? Before making the trip to Iran I had to purposely tune out the mass media, which as we all know tends to perpetuate the ugly side of life. This is not to say that there are not issues with Iran, there are, but my point is … is it any more dangerous?
There is no U.S. Embassy in Iran and that in itself can lead to concerns. On the flip side there is, of course, no Iranian Embassy in the U.S., but there is an Office of Iranian Interest in the Embassy of Pakistan in Washington, D.C. United States citizens can in fact travel to Iran, but they must travel with a sanctioned tour group and/or guide. If you happen to have dual citizenship with a country such as Norway, you can freely travel to Iran on your Norwegian passport. Abi and I traveled on our Iranian passports. The tourist industry is slowly burgeoning in Iran and Americans are finding themselves more than welcome.
Arrivals and Departures
We flew from Frankfurt, Germany to Tehran, Iran on Lufthansa Airlines; a 5 1/2-hour flight. Foreign carriers do not stay on the tarmac overnight in Iran, although I believe the flight crews stay. Lufthansa flights land at 1:30 a.m. and the same plane with a new crew departs at 3:30 a.m. This practice dates back to the revolution nearly 40 years ago. Before the revolution Lufthansa may have had multiple flights in/out of Tehran every day, now there is 1 flight in, 1 flight out each day.
Just like arriving in any other country, when arriving in Tehran one passes through customs with your passport. If you are American, British or Canadian you’ll be fingerprinted, but we weren’t because we were traveling on our Iranian passports. However, because it was my first time entering the country, the customs agent asked several questions, which of course I did not understand so Abi answered for me.
Hugs, Kisses & Tears
Is this your first time in Iran, are you married, do you have children, etc. I will admit I was nervous, but I kept smiling and she was quite friendly and welcomed me. We picked up our checked luggage. And, we were greeted with open arms by at least 30 members of Abi’s family. Hugs, kisses, tears, flowers, like any other family in any other part of the world embracing the weary travelers.
This is the 1st, of a series of posts, from our 3 weeks in Iran.
When we flew to JFK Airport in New York from Johannesburg, South Africa last October, we went through the regular screening at the airport which was much like that in the US, but in the waiting area for our flight, they asked us to line up in separate lines for men and women and every person was patted down and all our carry on luggage gone through. No one could take any liquids onto the plane, even those purchased after security at the airport. We were told the extra security measures were at the request of TSA. We refueled in Senegal, but no one who was not ending their flight there could disembark. We had to take all luggage our of the overhead bins and the bins were searched. All empty seats were literally taken apart and searched—-i.e. cushions removed. Interestingly, on the way into South Africa on a direct flight from JFK, we were screened for Ebola, but there was no screening at all for that at JFK, despite the stop in West Africa.
I have to admit, I was more worried for Abi than for you when you went to Iran given some dual nationals who have been detained. I know you were wary of posting anything on your blog while you were there. Do you think that concern was warranted? I look forward to reading more about your trip. I am sad that Tunisia is now another country that has had its tourism industry targeted and decimated by terrorism. The more contact the people of different nations have with each other, the better; hence, the desire of extremists to prevent this from happening.
Suzanne Fluhr recently posted…Artisanal Ice Cream – A Visit to La Ibense in Salou on the Costa Daurada in the Catalunya (Catalonia) Region of Spain
That is quite the security story, it’s really unnerving, isn’t it?! It would be so easy to say, I don’t want to travel because of the security risks. We had the same concerns about dual nationals so we did a lot of homework before we left, but Abi had zero issues passing in/out through Iranian customs. So many Iranians are dual and fly in/out every day. I do think our decision not to publish the blog while in Iran was warranted. Journalism (not that I consider myself a journalist) is a red flag and the internet is censored. We just decided to err on the side of caution.
Thanks for your nice post. Iran is as safe as any other countries and may be more safer than them .
I invite everyone to travel here, last week we hosted usa’s volleyball team and all of them were surprised about hospitality.
Our arms are opened to everyone.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the post, thanks so much for reading. Very good news the volleyball team traveled to Iran!
We (two women in our 40s) traveled independently in Iran for the first time. We have traveled in many Muslim countries before (also independently) and actually we never had a thought about Iran being a dangerous country to travel in. Could be that the European media report differently from the American press. We found it interesting that Iranians seem to get the the reverse propaganda: That all Western media report only bad things about Iran. People kept asking us all the time if we weren`t afraid to come to Iran.
Natascha from Westwards recently posted…On a transit visa through Turkmenistan
You make a valid point that the European/International news may portray Iran in a different light. The US State Dept., has a travel warning against Iran, not that you cannot travel, but travel warnings. Thanks so much for reading!
When I’ve traveled to South Africa friends always ask if I’m afraid and on the first trip in 2010 my (bigoted) mother said goodbye and she’d never see me again. Traveling anywhere, including your own home town, can be risky but it’s not going to stop me. I’m more afraid in the big US cities and always pay attention to intuition. Returning to the States the entire waiting group in Johannesburg had to go through a second security check. I think it’s the US.
How delightful to have such a warm welcome from Abi’s family.
Gaelyn recently posted…Surviving desert heat: shop, hike, eat
Oh my gosh, that’s a tough conversation with your mother. Paying attention, intuition, common sense, do your homework before leaving home, and just generally being aware of where you are and what is going on around you are all good practices. When we travel I so often see people who are just clueless and they might as well paint a target on their back!
Where is it really dangerous? An excellent question. We have not traveled to Iran, although we want to, but our current challenge is the news out of Mexico. Even though there were nearly a dozen shootings in Portland in the last few days, people we know are freaked out we’ll be on the road to Mexico soon. I believe a big part of the problem is simply lack of first hand information. We all listen to the news which, lets face it, is geared to shock in order to gain viewership. The more we travel, the more we understand people are inherently good and also, that shit can happen anywhere, and generally does when you least expect it. Keep on traveling and spreading the word!
Rhonda recently posted…Searching for Answers at Paquime
Yes, exactly Rhonda. Getting out there in the world really offers a broader perspective of people just living their lives and that they are in fact good and kind. We haven’t traveled to mainland Mexico but we have been to southern Baja a couple of times and we loved it. Anywhere you travel, there are issues, common sense and doing your homework goes a long way.
When we went to Turkey, several friends were fearful for us because Syria and the fighting is on the border of Turkey. We went with Overseas Adventure Travel. I think it was the best trip I’ve been on to date. Amazing place amazing food, people, cities and on and on.
I do know people in other countries think the U.S. is dangerous and are afraid to come here.
Turkey is on our travel radar. When did you go? We had some pretty strong reactions to our news about traveling to Iran as well, which is a big part of why I kept quiet until after we made the trip. The level of violence in the U.S. is heart wrenching and I can certainly understand the concerns of those who think about traveling to the U.S., but I try to hold on to the thought that people, anywhere in the world, are inherently good.
I love travelling but find airport security such a pain, yet I know there is no other way, we must endure it. Big airports are the worst. It must have been great for Abi to be able to show you his country and spend time with his family? It sounds like you had a very warm welcome. When we hear about the danger of certain countries we tend to forget that people are the same all over the world in spite of different cultures, beliefs and religion… we all just want peace, love, family life, security, health etc. I am looking forward to hear more about your trip to Iran.
Gilda Baxter recently posted…An Anglo-Brazilian Wedding (Take 2) in Canela, Brazil
Yep! Air travel is a great big pain in the …. And yes, this is what I hope to convey with my stories, that the Iranian people are just living their lives like everyone else.
Such an amazing post! I am dreaming about Iran too and just like you I have so many objections! Even though I do not follow mainstream media I hear few bad things from time to time. I really hope it takes me less than 20 years to convince myself about going to this country. I would love to visit it, especially after reading again and again The Way of the World, by Nicolas Bouvier. Such an amazing place it seems! Just three months ago I met an Iranian girl in Japan and she assured me that Iran is the most hospitable country in the world! I will follow your adventure.
Agata recently posted…Dolomites out of season
It did take me a long time but I’m a big believer in everything happens when it is supposed to and I truly believe I was not supposed to make the trip before now. I hope you do find your way to Iran and thanks for the tip about the book. I’m definitely going to give it a read!
Great post Patti! Thank you for putting a face on Iran, I have experienced feelings like you while traveling about the safety in certain countries. I came to feel as safe, sometimes safer in the places we’ve stayed as I did in my hometown in Canada. That is a gift that travel gives people, that change in perspective. Your family in Iran is beautiful. What an incredible experience to spend 3 weeks in Iran.
Tracey recently posted…Awesome Local Hangouts for Tapas and Beer in Madrid
Thanks, Tracey! I try to look at the security measures with a “better safe than sorry” perspective, but it can be SO frustratingly annoying at times and I’ve never been known for being patient. 😉